Monthly Archives: January 2020

Going to need a mulligan!

January 26, 2020

Well – this week I am going to claim a mulligan or do-over.

My back decided it was going to rule the roost for the week, regardless of how much meds it received. For much of the week, I could barely walk, so climbing around on ladders was NOT going to happen.

SO, there was no physical work done at site since the last update, but I did spend as much time in the office, as I could possibly stand sitting, doing research, sourcing, and ordering of materials and getting my building life much more organized (went through 200+ emails and numerous action lists).

Shop Air

In an earlier update, I mentioned I am putting compressed air lines into my shops and to each roof level.  I was looking at the Infinity piping system and received a quote, but unfortunately the cost ($2700 for my needs) is not remotely affordable to a home user and is more geared towards commercial or industrial users where durability of exposed piping is more important.

So I then looked at using PEX piping.  While, it does seem that this material can be suitable, you do have to make sure the particular brand is can handle the planned pressure at temperature.   Many people forget that the air coming out of a compressor can reach 300ºF or higher.  This is why you always connect metal pipe (black steel/copper) to the compressor, regardless of what the rest of the system’s pipe material will be.

When looking at PEX options, I came across RapidAir’s Maxline piping system. It is a HDPE pipe with an aluminium barrier that is semi-flexible allowing it to be easily routed around obstructions.

After briefly looking into customer reviews, and installation videos, I decided this would be more than adequate for me needs and placed my order.  I bought some of the product direct from RapidAir’s website but found that Summit Racing had better pricing on most components, and shipped everything to my Point Roberts pickup location to save significant freight and handling costs.  The total value of both orders came in at $1100 CAD for a larger scope than the Infinity $2700 covered.

RapidAir Fittings RapidAir Tubing

RapidAir Compressed Air System ready to install

Waste Water Heat Recovery

I also manage to source and order my drain-water-heat-recovery unit.  This will be installed on the vertical ABS stack servicing the master bathroom group and will extract the heat from the water being washed down the drain and impart that heat into the cold water line feeding that bathroom group.  The main reason to install this device is to save energy associated with showering.  For the device to work, you must have significant volumes of heated waste water being generated at the same time as cold water is being consumed. This generally only takes place during showering activities.  By feeding the shower with warmed ‘cold’ water, you reduce the volume of water needed from the ‘hot’ piping to reach the same desired showering temperature.  Manufacturers claim that there can be up to a 40% reduction in the volume of hot water needed for a shower by using this device.  It consists of a copper tube the same diameter as your ABS stack with a series of copper pipes wound tightly around and bonded to that centre copper tube.  I chose the power-pipe design because the outer tubes are run through a die and squared off, meaning better surface contact with each other and the centre tube, thereby increasing the efficiency of the device.

Unlike many of these devices, the outer tubes are die-formed into square profiles increasing surface area contact with centre tube

Install the longest device you can fit onto your stack for maximizing efficiency and payback of device

Well, that it folks.  Not much to show this week.  As of tonight, the back is feeling much better, so I am hoping for a somewhat productive upcoming week.

As always – thanks for visiting.

“It’s what you learn after you know it all that counts.” —John R. Wooden (1910-2010) Basketball Coach, Author

The problems of the world cannot possibly be solved by skeptics or cynics whose horizons are limited by the obvious realities. We need people who can dream of things that never were and ask ‘why not’?” —John F. Kennedy (1917-1963) 35th Us President


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Non Potable – Done!

January 20, 2020

Hey Folks,

Time for my weekly check-in albiet a little late due to technical difficulties yesterday. I had intended to have a video showing the installation of each of the components of the non-potable water circuit, but technical difficulties meant I lost most of the vids.  By the time I figured that out, the work was complete and I no longer had an opportunity to re-tape as the piping was covered with insulation.  So I will give you the Coles Notes version instead.

I am pleased the week went as planned and I was able to complete the non-potable water circuits for the toilets and also the taps on both roof levels yesterday.  It was a slow start as I accumulated the needed parts and got up to speed on insulating water lines, something I had not done before.  I reached out to a couple of forums I belong to and was able to reinforce my general plans and tweak them towards best practices.

Because the pipes will contain ground water, somewhere around the 45-55ºF range, and they will be running through conditioned spaces, the pipes need to be insulated to prevent condensation forming on their outside surface.  While drips in an unfinished space would be annoying,  condensation forming in a closed-in wall or ceiling assembly can cause deterioration to the structure and fungi growth.

The most important aspect to insulating piping against condensation, is to ensure that the insulation is both vapour and air tight.  To aid in this, I chose to use Armaflex Elastomeric Rubber Continuous Coil Pipe Insulation.  By using continuous coils, I only had to seal around fittings and framing penetrations greatly improving the quality of the installation.  It also, thankfully,  greatly sped up installation.

At framing penetrations, ideally the insulation would be continuous through the framing, but in 2×4 and even 2×6 construction, this is not possible without destroying the structural capacity of the wood member.  SO, instead I terminated the insulation on each side of the stud or top plate, and glued the insulation to each side of the wood member using KFEX R320 adhesive.


Finished installation – PEX-A tube is continuous from manifold in basement to this toilet on the second floor. Where the tube penetrates the framing, the insulation is glued to each side of the wood to form an air tight seal.

I used the webbing, used to secure my window package shipment, to hold the insulated pipe in place without crushing the insulation. You can also see the well sealed insulation around a tee.

For items that needed to be secured, like this toilet stub out, I fastened the pipe first

Before sealing to the stud and nearby insulation to create a air tight cover. I will later seal the copper stud to the insulation to prevent air flow down the inside of the insulation sleeve.

Similar strategy was employed around odd shaped items like this drop ear elbow at the wall hanging toilet feed.

The circuit was fed with a 1″ PVC pipe that is hung from the ceiling of the bonus room below the garage. At this location, due to the different diameter of the pipe, I had to use split insulation lengths (continuous tube not available for this size).  I used K-Flex Insul-Lock DS at this location and Kooltherm Insulated Pipe Support Inserts. These provide a structural insulated pipe hanger solution without crushing and therefore degrading the insulation value.  The K-Flex was then sealed to each side of the inserts with re-enforced tape.

Bonus Room – Non-Potable Water Feed. Structural Insulation Inserts placed in hangers with elastomeric insulation sealed to it on each side.

I will leave you with the portions of the installation video that survived the corruption.

Thanks for visiting!

“The secret of change is to focus all of your energy, not on fighting the old, but on building  the new.” —Socrates (469-399) Philosopher

“There is no magic to achievement. It’s really about hard work, choices, and persistence.” —Michelle Obama (born 1964) Author, Former First Lady

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More Planning

January 12, 2020

Hey folks,

Another week has flown by and as I look back to see how I have spent my week, I am amazed at how long planning has continued to take on this project.  I certainly start to understand the costs assocated to architects on custom homes. At least my efficiency is high because I am both the designer and end user, so do not loose anything in translation.

This week, the planning entailed the following:

1) Figuring out a way to install the LED wafer style recessed lights on the 2nd floor.

The led driver for the recessed lighting needs to slip through a 2-3/4” hole and sit into a 1-1/2” service raceway created with 2×2 attached to the bottom side of the OSB air and vapour barrier. As the driver is just under 1-1/2”, this presented a bit of a challenge. I need to stay to the 1-1/2″ allowed in my design for the raceway because otherwise it will project below the top of the windows in the clerestory and start blocking the window opening.

I finally figured out that if I cut a rectangle hole in the OSB layer above the insulation layer, I would be able to slide the driver into place through the layers and fasten into place.

LED Driver

Although this led driver fits lengthways through the 2-3/4″ hole needed to install the recessed light fixture, there is not enough depth in the hole to rotate it flat into the service race way.

Ceiling Raceway Assembly mock-up

Assembly is made up as follows:

  • Drywall Finished Surface
  • 3/4″of rigid foam insulation with foil facer (represented by cardboard) inserted between Pex-Al-Pex tubing snapped into aluminium heat transfer plates on 6″ centres (simulated by the white pipe you can barely see in photo below)
  • 1/2″ OSB or plywood backing layer. This layer allows the drywall to be screwed through the insulation and into the plywood backer at many locations, instead of just at truss locations, providing a tighter fit between the drywall and heat transfer plates and better heat transfer between the two materials. In the end, the drywall becomes the radiating surface of the heating (and cooling) system.
  • 2×2 lumber strips attached to the OSB above and into the roof trusses, perpendicular to the roof trusses (the screws will be coated with sealant before screwing into place to maintain air barrier)

A tight fit for the led driver

By cutting a rectangle, the size of the LED driver, in the OSB layer above the carboard (simulated insulation), I was then able to rotate it down flat against the top surface where it could then slide into the cavity.

Note: the top layer of plywood shown in the above two photos was just to form the mock-up and attach temporarily to the real OSB surface as I also needed to ensure 550 lumens was bright enough at this elevated roof height.

2) Since I recently confirmed a direction for creating the domestic hot water with a hybrid heat pump water heater, this meant I needed to finalize the layout of the heating and cooling system.

I finished a preliminary layout of that system and am now participating in a critique discussion of the plan on some forums I belong to. Once I get some feedback, I will send it off to Benoit at ThermAtlantic for his final comments and then to my consultant for final design of the piping outside of the boiler room. I will then be ready to start procuring the equipment.

Draft Space Conditioning Equipment Layout

3) I will be installing shop air in the dwelling to the two shops, but also to the garage and the two roof levels (to aid in blowing off tree leaves and needles)

So I spent some time doing a circuit plan and material takeoff before sending a quote request to WiseWorth for the infinity piping system.

Aluminum piping is often considered the best practice approach for shop air as more affordable than copper or stainless, but does not rust like any form of galvanized or black steel (never use PVC for compressed air lines!).  I may also consider PEX if I can find enough information showing it will not be effected by the oils in compressed airs, as it certainly has the pressure rating and would be cheaper than the aluminium pipe and require less fittings.

Infinity Air Piping is literally a snap

4) I also spent some time designing the security system and getting technical info on the components.

I will probably utilize a DSC security panel interconnected to my HomeSeer home automation platform.

5) There was also a number of hours spent on the electrical systen planning.

I need relays to drop two subpanels, from the main panel, when on generator power to prevent the generator form being overloaded.

I am installing a service rated 200A transfer switch prior to the main electrical circuit panel to allow the whole house to be powered by the genset in a utility power failure. But this means I need to take some larger loads like the tools in my two shops and the dryer offline via the shedding sub-panels.

These relay boxes from PSP can be configured in a variety of ways to automatically shed circuits when on generator power.

I also need the ability to select between several high amperage loads when on utility power to ensure I do not exceed the 200 amps coming to the dwelling (Welder, compressor, dryer, and high amp car charger).

I am working with on both the dropping relays and the load selecting switches. I will explain this system in more detail once all of the components are selected and installed.

In addition to the above ‘office work’ I did manage to complete some ‘real’ work at site this week.

As always, thanks for visiting!

“Every great story happened when someone decided not to give up.” —Spryte Loriano  Author, Entrepreneur, Humanitarian

“Take a method and try it. If it fails, admit it frankly, and try another. But by all means, try something.” —Franklin D. Roosevelt (1882-1945) 32nd U.S. President

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Front Yard Summer Work

January 5, 2020

Hey folks,

Trying to abide by my promise of weekly updates.  While over the last week, I have only been performing boring office work, I did manage to squeeze out two new time-lapse vids for the outdoor roving cam.

I have some fun and narrated the main video and provide a music sound track to make these a bit more informative and pleasurable.  Cannot promise I will always be able to provide this level of post editing, but thought it would be fun for these relatively short vids.

This vid covers the prep for the tree stump removal and the cleanup once the stump was removed.

I also created a short fun vid that shows a wildflower garden close after seeding all the way to maturity.  It is cool to see the movement of the plants throughout the day as the sum moves or as they recover from watering.  This was a big hit in the neighbourhood.

Thanks for visiting.

“Keep your face always toward the sunshine—and shadows will fall behind you. ” —Walt Whitman (1819-1892) Poet, Humanist

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January 1, 2020

Finally!  This sums up my thoughts of the moment and covers a wide array of topics this year.

Finally: On June 8, I finished the installation of the roofing insulation package and Ceiling OSB air and Vapour barrier. This significantly closed up the dwelling and will finally keep the birds out!

Finally: On July 18, I finally completed the last of the Coulson engineered cedar siding installation (save for a handful of trim pieces around the top of the first floor windows). Most was complete in 2018, but it still felt like a milestone for 2019, to complete the majority of the unfinished window returns from last year and complete the final staining of the south, north elevations and second to last coat on the east elevation.  This took an extraordinary amount of effort to install this siding with much of the pain self induced. The part I could not help was the difficulty installing the rain-screen furring strips over 6” of exterior mineral wool insulation. This was aided by jigs, installation sequencing, and lots of patience.

If I was doing this again, I would have elected to go with the option of ¾” exterior wall sheathing instead of ½”. This would have allowed me to place the furring strips at any location along the wall and not worrying about getting them fastened through the insulation and into the studs. The part that was self induced was my desire for a nice clean installation of the siding meaning no trim boards around windows, doors, and wall corners. I instead elected to mitre each of these interfaces. Per best practices, I also mitred the butt-joints between boards on each course to prevent storm water penetration at the joint. Because of the needed tolerances, I generally did not rely on a tape measure and instead would cut one end’s mitre, then put plank in place – mark, and cut the other end’s mitre. I love the finished look, but it added up to thousand’s of hours for the whole dwelling.

Finally: Aug 2019 was the first time that I finally took a 2 week vacation after working pretty much 7 days a week for 7 years other than when I was down with illness, injury, appointments, or exhaustion. This was an important recharge and regroup (although far too short) and we have already booked our Sunshine Coast house rental again for 2020.

What’s not to like! Sunshine Coast house rental

Finally: On Sept 30, I finally completed the inspections on my outside mechanical package (much to the delight of my Municipal plumbing inspector who had extended my permit MANY times). This included the ground water 1000 gal storage cistern and municipal storm sewer connection completed on Aug 14/2018, the dwelling water service and sewage connection completed March 20 (allowing me to finally get rid of construction toilet and install a ‘real’ toilet inside), and then finally installing my Duplex ground water pumping station this last September. This is significant milestone because for the first time since the start of construction, I would not be relying on cheap Canadian Tire sump pump to keep the basement from flooding. All I need now is the electrical backup generator and this system will be foolproof.

Ironically, as I was writing this post last night, the house we currently are renting the basement of across the street, had a storm water emergency.  What you are seeing in this photo below is the water backing up from the shallow sump, that is supposed to gravity drain to the street storm sewer, back up into the deep well sump.  This was preventing the deep well sump pumps from keeping up with the huge storm water loads we had last night, and was setting off the house alarm.  It looks like the pipe between the shallow sump and the road sewer is plugged and there was nowhere for the pumped-up water to go.  I was able to get my two old Canadian Tire sump pumps and connect them temporarily to a garden hose for one and a 1″ pvc line for the other, and pump the water out to the street’s surface.  A very wet two hours later and we had the water down to safe levels, and hopefully will be able to maintain this till tomorrow when the owner can get someone out to investigate the drain pipe blockage (thankfully the rain stopped and the flow should gradually decrease). I guess those Canadian Tire pumps wanted one last hoorah!

Water is supposed to be pumping OUT this hole, not coming in from it 🙁

Finally: On Dec 5, I finally installed a front guest entry door! This ended a long and drawn out multi-year hunt for an attractive, yet still reasonably energy efficient, front entrance door that was reasonably affordable. I had been looking for a front entrance door pretty much since the beginning of the build in 2014. My default position prior to construction was that I was going to build a insulated door on site, but due to the delays in starting the project, code changes introduced made building your own door a lot more regulated and expensive.

I started sending out enquiries in Sept 2017 and was not liking what I was seeing. Locally made, the only energy efficient doors were made with opaque fibreglass panels, that quite frankly were either boring or ugly. I initially was looking for a naturally finished vertical grain fir look, but these do not exist higher than about R3. So I started to look at more exotic options including Passive House certified doors. For ZOLA, I was looking at a minimum order value of $40K USD! This was more than I had spent on my entire window package!! EuroLine Optimum 90 started at around $17,500. OptiWin came in around $12K. Hammer and Hand (the most energy efficient and attractive option) started at around $17K USD. I was just buying a door, not a car!! At these prices, there would never be a payback based on energy saved.

So I started again down the journey of building my own custom door with the help of a local door shop that makes custom artisan wood entry doors. They had expressed interest in a energy efficient design, but it was clear after a lot of hours were invested in the process, that they were too far away in knowledge to reach this goal (there sills did not even have air seals). Fortunately Cascadia Windows and Doors came to my rescue with a custom designed door. I will provide more details on this attractive and cost effective door in the update.

I have a door!!!

Finally: On Dec 12, I finally installed the last of the exterior ROCKWOOL insulation including the garage walls shared with the main dwelling.

Installing the second last panel of mineral wool on the exterior of the walls!  The new soffit lights were great to work by.

One more piece to go to finish the interior garage walls that are shared by the main dwelling.

I first started this exterior insulation on Sept 27, 2017!!! only to be stopped on Oct 11, 2017 by the local Municipality because the were not comfortable with this advanced construction entailed in my design and did not formally recognize the Provincially published prescriptive guide Illustrated Guide – R22+ Effective Walls in Residential Construction in B.C  This setback took months to get sorted out and cost me thousands of extra dollars.

In the end guess what needed to be changed – NOTHING! Two different top firm’s building envelope engineers were completely happy with my design and workmanship and felt it definitely met best practice and then some. So it feels incredible to finally get this milestone behind me, and the resultant itch and lung irritation induced by working around and cutting the material for so many months. It is actually somewhat bearable inside now with only a small 15A electric oil filled heater inside (stays at around 10-12ºC even when freezing outside).

Finally: On Dec 18, I finally had a clear direction for both my space conditioning (heating and cooling), AND potable hot water generation, after successfully defending my decision to use the Hybrid Water Heater on a forum I belonged to. I was able to show that the payback for this device (including the extra heat in the room needed to offset its cooling) is expected to be under 3 years.

The house had been designed around a Air to Water heat pump technology. Originally, it was going to be the Altherma, but Daikin pulled it from North America in 2017 due to poor sales. I was then steered in the direction of the Solstice SE SpacePak system by some industry greats, but careful analysis by my HVAC consultant in March 2019 indicated that the system would not be suitable for creating domestic hot water (SpacePak’s own engineer recommended against it).

This left a mad scramble as the dwelling had already been designed around this technology, and as the dwelling envelope was essentially complete in the area around the HVAC room, there was no opportunity to rough-in a low temp high efficiency combustion exhaust.

Since I first started designing the system in Oct 2017 (mis-start determining heat loss on room by room basis with a vendor who clearly was not up to my standards) till now, I have put 190 hours into research and planning the system. I now have an accurate heat loss and gain calculation on a room by room basis and a resultant hydronic panel layout thanks to LoopCAD. I have selected a indoor Heat Pump Hybrid Water Heater for our domestic hot water loads (most likely Rheem). For the space conditioning system, we will use a 3-Ton outdoor heat pump (possibly Goodman) pared with ThermAtlantic’s DX2W indoor unit.

Benoit Maneckjee, ThermAtlantic President, has been extremely helpful working through the technical information associated with various heating strategies. We tried, for a while, to look at creating the domestic hot water using an outdoor heat pump, but the max temperatures created by these pumps are just not conducive to creating domestic hot water (min storage requirement is 140ºF and heat pumps typically have a max production of 120ºF).

They do work great, however, for low water temp heating in high performance dwellings. My designed heating water temp being fed to the panels on the coldest of days is only 85ºF (to meet design heating load of only 18K Btu/hr for a 4800ft2 dwelling!) and my cooling water temperature fed to the panels on the hottest days of the year will only be 66ºF to meet the design cooling load of approx. 20K Btu/hr ( cooling loads are harder to define as program defaults do not anticipate best practice design like air tight homes with no infiltration and fixed solar shades blocking majority of summer solar gain, so I expect my actual gain will be less than the program’s estimate). Benoit calculated my estimated annual heating cost at only $445! Since using electricity to create heat, while greener in BC, is more expensive than gas, this low annual cost is fantastic.

The final piece of the puzzle was figuring out the hot water generation via the Hybrid Water heater. Its delayed adoption by me was caused by a misread on one of the equipment spec sheets early in the process. Instead of stating the minimum room size was 500 CUBIC feet, I thought it read SQUARE feet. As I did not have a room 500ft2 in the basement I could locate the heater, it would have to be placed in the main HVAC area that is open to the rest of the dwelling. But the noise created by these heat pumps would be far too loud to accept and I had abandoned the idea. It was not till I was absolutely desperate for a solution other than a electric resistance water heater, that I re-read the spec and realized my error. This unit will now be put in the ‘bunker’ I have under the garage created by making the garage floor slab a suspended slab and excavating below. This room is 100% isolated from the rest of the dwelling with an air and insulation barrier, so the heat pump’s operation should not disturb the dwelling occupants in any manner.

Finally: On Dec 30, I finally finished designing my lighting plan and electrical system and will send my requirements for the distribution panel off to Leviton, who may be interested in partially sponsoring their ‘Smart’ Load Centre.

The system planning was a lot more involved than I anticipated. We will primarily light the dwelling with fixtures like these recessed Wafer Style LED’s (and NO we will not be penetrating our ceiling air barrier to install, they will be installed into a service race way below the barrier). I have over 200 fixtures planned (allowing for various light levels in rooms), and at full intensity (most will be dimmable), the total watt draw will only be 3960 watts (the equivalent of only 40 – 100W bulbs). This includes some heavily lit areas like my two workshops and garage work bench that together account for 900 of these watts.

In reality, the draw will be much lower as we will seldom have circuits at max intensity (will probably link some key circuits to light intensity sensor, to automatically dim on days with adequate natural light). The lights are designed so that we can have a more even gentler light vs brighter individual lights.

The surprising effort surrounded finding good guidance on the lumens needed in a room for various room types. Many of the formulas found online are based on the old incandescent lighting and just not appropriate for modern lighting and modern homes. The days of a single 100W or double 60W light fixture installed in the centre of a room are happily long gone!

In the end, I relied on the following table to determine the level of lighting needed per room which provides the amount of Foot Candles recommended per square foot based on room or area use.

I converted the foot candles to lumens using on online utility and then confirmed these lighting levels by installing samples, provided by Green Canada LED (Thank-you!), in my mud room to ensure it was the kind and intensity of light that we were after.

5 fixtures for a total of 3200 Lumens was just about right for a mud room with work surfaces. Layout provide nice even light with no shadows. This also allowed us to confirm we like the 3000K colour temperature that emulates incandescent warm white.  Might go with 4000K or 5000K for workshops to get truer colours, but for the rest of the house the ‘yellower’ light is a lot more inviting (we tested this with one of the fixtures that could switch between colour temps)

The following images shows some of my design work for the first floor, showing the anticipated lighting patterns of the fixtures and needed lumens for the rooms.  The yellow circle was the radius requiring GFCI receptacles around the kitchen sink. The detailed calculations were required because the old rule that you can only have 12 fixtures on a single 15A circuit no longer is in effect if using wired in LED fixtures with integral emitters.  Now the circuit can have as many light fixtures as can be serviced with 12 amps (1440 watts).  At 9 watts or less a fixture, this is a LOT of fixtures allowed on one circuit.

Purple circles represent the anticipated beam pattern of the LED light fixture. Purple squares on walls indicate receptacles and switches.

Selection of worksheet documenting lights circuits and wattage draw.

With the lighting plan completed, I was then able to determine the overall electrical plan with the goal of squeezing the bulk of the system into one 66 circuit load panel. This was aided by the fact that the two workshop sub panels will be fed by a load shedding device like these magnetic latching relays, that will drop these loads when on generator supply so that the generator cannot be overloaded. This freed up one 2-Pole slot in the panel. I will also feed the dryer and future high-amp car charger from the sub-panel in the metal work shop, as these too will need to be dropped when on gen power, but more importantly, will themselves share a circuit using something like the Load Miser, in order to not exceed the dwellings electrical supply of 200Amps. This freed up two more 2-Pole spots in the panel. In the end, I have 5 spare spots including the two mandatory ones.

Documenting Electrical Circuits and panel requirements for each.

I do not mind stating, I am extremely satisfied to see this year in the rear-view mirror. I have every intention of ensuring that by our 2020 vacation, the dwelling will be complete to a level that will allow occupation. This project has gone on long enough, and while I am satisfied with the outcome and the costs to date (including our holding costs like rent and project financing) showing this was still a financial success, the 10,054 hours I have contributed to date on the build are wearing on me. I am happy to start 2020 with the more unpleasant tasks of the build behind me, and things like electrical and plumbing, that I thoroughly enjoy, in my view ahead.

Going forward, I will also once again endeavour to be more diligent in my updates to you, maybe even going as far as attempting to issue weekly weekend updates every Sunday ??? Lets see how we make out.

As always – thanks for visiting and Happy New Year!

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